Against the Current

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Hiking & Snorkeling the Captain Cook Monument

This is by far the best snorkeling on the island. This area is only accessible by hiking or boating in. While it is still a popular spot, it’s remoteness and fact that it’s a protected reef has kept this area almost pristine.

The hike is pretty strenuous and exposed in some areas so the trail can get HOT. Because of that, paying for a spot on boat might be a better option for those with any kind of health issues. There are large tour boats and kayak trips/rentals that will take you here and allow you to snorkel. BUT, if you are up for a bit of a workout and enjoy hiking, definitely don’t miss this!

You’ll want at least half a day for this trip. We like to hike down mid day and hike back up at sunset. Not only is the sunset beautiful but it’s much cooler in the afternoon. Keep in mind, if you hike out too late you will need a flash light.

Packing List

  • Reef Safe Sunscreen

  • Backpack - you really don’t want to haul a one shoulder bag all the way down and back up

  • Water - you’re going to need way more than a wimpy 12oz bottle from the gas station. I have a 2 liter water bladder that I can go through on this hike. I’m a water addict, so you may not need this much. But on short day hikes, I always like to take more than I think I need.

  • Bug Spray - We haven’t needed this every time, but the days we did need it, we needed it!

  • Sunglasses/Hat - trust me, it can get so freaking bright and hot on this trail

  • Swimsuit

  • Towel - this really isn’t necessary, but I like to have something to sit on when I’m not snorkeling

  • Snorkel gear

  • Camera - waterproof if you have it

  • Snacks - always take snacks!

*Please note that there are no restroom facilities or trash cans on this trail

Getting There

Plug in “Captain Cook Monument Trail” into any GPS and it will take you where you need to go. I’ve also linked the location HERE. The trail head is just off the road past an intersection. Parking is on the side of the road but there are many areas that have “No Parking” signs. Take them seriously, I’ve seen many cars ticketed before. You’ll see the trail head on the makai side (ocean side) of the road. For the average hiker (like me) it should take you 45 minutes to an hour, give or take a few, each way. Going down is pretty easy, but it can get slippery if there is a lot of dead grass on the trail. Every time I go the trail is different. Sometimes it’s been cut back and it’s super exposed to the elements. Other times the grass is so overgrown (like the photos below) you have to keep your head down so you’re not constantly getting slapped by it. *Last photo is on the way back when we ran into some wild goats.

Once you get to the bottom try to find an area you can put your bags off the ground. The mongoose are ruthless here! They will wiggle their way into your bags and make off with whatever food you have. We usually hang our bags on the big black posts around the monument and have never had issues.

Getting in the water has always been easiest for me at the small break wall in front of the monument. I like to gracefully belly flop in when the water is at it’s highest. It’s relatively shallow close to shore, so I wouldn’t recommend diving. Once you’re in, you’ll notice most of the coral is closest to shore. We’ve never felt a strong current here and have always felt very safe. Then again, we’ve never ventured out too far past the drop off.

Getting out can be a bit tricky. Always check where you’re putting your hands and feet, there a TONS of sea urchins. The last thing you want to do is get an urchin spine stuck in your foot and then have to hike all the way back up. Sometimes tour groups put out a ladder, which in our experience they haven’t seemed to mind other people using.

This is truly a special place on the Big Island. Please do your part and pack out everything you take in and be respectful of the land and reef.

Don’t hesitate to comment any questions about the hike below! If you do go or have gone I would love to hear about your experience and the sea creatures you encountered!